How to Start Learning Route Setting

Hey Alex, I'm sorry to hear that you are having a difficult time getting started with routesetting. As a former employer and routesetter, I can typically see both sides. For instance, living in Colorado, there is already such a high demand for quality routesetting, gym owners and head routesettera don't have a need to train from the ground up. To be honest, most routesetters start, like any apprenticeship, with the bitch work: washing holds, rethreading bolts, if you're lucky, stripping walls for comps. To receive training outside of employment of the facility you wish to set for is rare and, if offered, a really lucky opportunity because the liability of having someone off their insurance on a ladder makes gym owners unhappy. In my experience, I've been in more gyms that could care less about USAC certifications but they are a good indicator that the applicant has an understanding of the basics.

So if youre not employed at a gym, it sounds like you're taking great steps in the right direction. Louie's book is even still educational to me to this day. With you being a stronger climber, don't get all blinded by the allure of setting the most badass V10 ever. Start smaller and perfect movement. You know what fun flowy movement feels like - no move should be too cruxy when you start off, nothing too staccato. Take the opportunity to experiment, and ask yourself, where does this foot need to be to force this move? If I put it higher, what changes? The fundamentals are the most important part in your setting development. Just don't watch those WC videos and go straight for the 360 campus on pockets!

Long story short, instead of going to the head routesetter and asking Can I set? If you are truly serious about taking up routesetting as a career, offer to do anything and expect to not get to turn a wrench right away. Good luck!