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Post by Grodzki (Admin) on Dec 21, 2014 23:45:49 GMT
There's been a lot of talk about monochromatic setting as of late and there seems to be a fair amount of controversy surrounding the issue. My gym (MetroRock, Boston) has been employing a combination of taping and monochromatic setting, that way, if tape does fall off, customers can still follow the route. That being said, we have some areas of the gym that are entirely tape-free and I'd be psyched to convert all of our rope walls to the monochrome style.
What are the factors that your gym is considering when deciding to set with or without tape? What are the benefits and shortcomings? I'm curious to see what different gyms do across the country.
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Post by pebblewrassler on Jan 20, 2015 1:13:34 GMT
Pros of each one
Monochromatic: save time and money
Tape: spend lots of money and waste time
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Post by climbandcreate on Jan 20, 2015 4:43:30 GMT
Well I'm glad you brushed over the obvious huge amount of spending you have to do to get enough holds in each color to actually set a diversity of styles of routes for each color of holds.
I love being in a gym where Monochromatic is available. I can easily see where I am going and when I am on-route I have no trouble remembering which feet were on/off. Most of these gyms often also tape their routes, which almost defeats the purpose, but plays nicely into eliminating overlapping routes that may intersect in the same color. Although, it's much easier for newcomers to understand the monochromatic style and they tend to figure out the routes in a much more efficient way. Tape confuses people and I am constantly reminding new people what things are on/off each route and it's definitely a bit more confusing to the average joe.
When I'm setting, I often tend to lean towards monochromatic, but in most local gyms there is often a lack of diversity in hold styles and a plethora of multicolored holds which makes them unusable on monochrome sets. Taping gives the setter an unlimited arsenal of holds to use in any way and the ability to select a tape color that will not overlap on the wall. When it comes to options and money (in the long run) taping is the way to go.
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Post by Aubrey W on Jan 20, 2015 16:34:09 GMT
Most routesetters of the school modern thought walk into my gym and immediately get a headache. While I personally would enjoy the tape to at least go in a certain uniform direction, our members and customers are typically happy. In the Era we exist in now, the Era of super gyms, the idea of monchromatic makes sense, is better looking and easier and more efficent to maintain in the long haul. But in the end, it is what works for your community. With taping, we have 120 routes and 100 Boulder problems that, with monochromatic, would probably be cut in half. Our members prefer more routes over pretty walls.
I however still set monochromatic with tape, or bichromatic in a theme. It still allows for a more aesthetic look but you have to be smart about it, i.e. not using green holds with red tape next to red holds with green tape. Or using a bunch of orange holds next to a route that also used a number of orange holds.
Don't automatically assume that because you don't have a lot of holds that you can't switch to monochromatic. Back in FL, we switch most of just our bouldering to monochromatic. If we didn't have perfectly matching holds, we would tape with the corresponding colors. And we tested it out, asked for feedback and there you go. If your community freaKS out, you can either educate them on why you are trying to go monochromatic, or go back to the old ways to make everyone happy.
If you don't have a preset hold budget, get one, and slowly build your hold arsenal. Eventually, you will see more opportunities for more creativity and selection in a certain color field.
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Post by adamcatalano on Jan 31, 2015 13:02:19 GMT
In our gym all three methods of marking routes works pretty nicely. We have a "Slot Canyon" that is mostly vert or slab and used for parties where any hold can go on any route with any tape color. In our bouldering area, we are monochromatic with matching tape color, this allows for more density and overlap if necessary. On the rest of the rope climbs, we are monochromatic with no tape. I'm liking the system for now. The Canyon gives me a place to put all the mixed and off color sets (why does the DRCC still mix colors?)
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